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Old 01-21-2016, 12:11 PM   #1
Rudy
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Default New Track Build

I wanted to share my track M3 build. I've been tracking my dd 330i for the past couple years, and it was time to build a dedicated track car.



Modification list

Drivetrain
Catless Headers
AR20 Section 1
Manzo SS exhaust
AKG Motorsport 75D engine mounts
AKG Motorsport 75D transmission mounts
AKG Motorsport 75D differential mounts
SS clutch line
AKG Quick Shift II
Turner Underdrive Pulleys
BW High Pressure VANOS line
Macht Schnell Intake Elbow
SPAL Electric fan, aux fan delete
WPC Treated Rod bearings

Suspension
TC Kline D/A
Hyperco 6''/60mm/700 front
Eibach 120mm/60mm/800 rear
TC Kline camber plates
RE Monoball RSM
RE Rear Articulating Spring Perches
Hotchkis front/rear swaybar
BW front adjustable swaybar links
Hotchkis rear adjustable swaybar links
Powerflex Black RTABs
AKG Motorsport 75D Front Control Arm Bushings
AKG Motorsport 75D rear subframe mounts
AKG Solid steering coupler
Turner Motorsport rear subframe reinforcement
Dinan strut brace
SPC rear camber arms

Brakes
Performance Friction race pads compound 08
Centric High Carbon Blanks
Stoptech Stainless steel braided lines
BW Brass guide pin bushings

Interior
Full Interior delete
Kirk rollbar
Sparco Ergo seats
Brey-Krause seat mounts
Schroth Profi II/Clubsport harness
Rogue Engineering clutch stop
Radio delete panel
Halotron Fire Extinguisher 2.5lbs center console mounted with quick release

Exterior
AKG tow hooks
Lexan sunroof delete panel

Wheels
APEX ARC-8 17x10 ET25
Nitto NT01 275/40/17
BW Race studs 82mm

Fluids
Liqui Moly 10W-60
Motul RBF 600
Redline D4 ATF
Redline 75W140 GL5
BMW Coolant/Distilled Water 50:50 with Redline Water Wetter
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Old 01-21-2016, 12:26 PM   #2
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downvote. Dis is a lie.
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Old 01-21-2016, 02:43 PM   #3
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1) Awesome, congrats - I think my E46 M3 was maybe the most fun track car I've ever owned. Mine was full interior and full weight to boot

2) Do Rod bearings? - you're saying this car never had the recall? Or are people running into issues after extended mileage on the updated spec bearings? I saw the bearings that came out of my car and they were really clean, but my car wasn't tracked prior to the recall either.

3) You don't have to go crazy on the setup. the one you propose plus ground control bars is the ticket. Mine was even more simple and the car was still plenty fast and wicked fun to drive.
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Old 01-21-2016, 02:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudiOn19s View Post
1) Awesome, congrats - I think my E46 M3 was maybe the most fun track car I've ever owned. Mine was full interior and full weight to boot

2) Do Rod bearings? - you're saying this car never had the recall? Or are people running into issues after extended mileage on the updated spec bearings? I saw the bearings that came out of my car and they were really clean, but my car wasn't tracked prior to the recall either.

3) You don't have to go crazy on the setup. the one you propose plus ground control bars is the ticket. Mine was even more simple and the car was still plenty fast and wicked fun to drive.
Rod bearings were done by the dealer at 56k, however I've read they should be replaced every 100k miles, or every two seasons for track cars, or every season for race cars. I'll do some more research. I think a set is $300, add in $ for bolts and the time to replace them, it might just be cheap insurance so I don't have to worry about it.

Yeah, I was looking into either a front Hotchkis or Ground Control sway bar as the only other real "mod". All the other work is either maintenance, weight loss, or seat/harness/bar. I'm thinking of sticking with the stock brakes as well, and running my DTC-60's for now. Thankfully the suspension and brakes from the 330i are the same.

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downvote. Dis is a lie.
Clearly it's a photoshop
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:35 PM   #5
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If you don't already know Mike Rohrbaugh in Cincinnati I'll have to put you in touch with him. He's my buddy with the Laguna Seca blue car that's stupid wicked fast in his. He's stock motor / exhaust / etc, gutted, ground controls, sways, etc. Really simple setup but really very fast in it. Turns :38's - 39's on BFG's.

Also, inspect that sub frame and plan on doing the reinforcements if it's not already done.
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudiOn19s View Post
If you don't already know Mike Rohrbaugh in Cincinnati I'll have to put you in touch with him. He's my buddy with the Laguna Seca blue car that's stupid wicked fast in his. He's stock motor / exhaust / etc, gutted, ground controls, sways, etc. Really simple setup but really very fast in it. Turns :38's - 39's on BFG's.

Also, inspect that sub frame and plan on doing the reinforcements if it's not already done.
Sub frame reinforcements are on the list - I need to drop the whole subframe so I can switch out the carrier and diff bushings (there's the typical E46 driveline slop) and I'll epoxy some plates in.
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:38 PM   #7
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Just drive the damn thing! It ain't broke yet!

Can't you do an oil analysis before tearing into the bottom end? I would think you'd be ok for a while (1+ track seasons?).

Hopefully winter won't last too long so we can all get out and play soon. You've got a nice combo of E46's now. Congrats!
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:57 PM   #8
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Agreed on oil analysis. My first analysis had elevated lead and copper but by 3 points. Failing bearings will have 200 plus points. Don't know if you read about the rear reinforcement but plates may not be the end all solution. Lots of threads on m3forum about it. If mine isn't cracked, I may do the welded bar plus bolt method.
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:13 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron View Post
Just drive the damn thing! It ain't broke yet!

Can't you do an oil analysis before tearing into the bottom end? I would think you'd be ok for a while (1+ track seasons?).

Hopefully winter won't last too long so we can all get out and play soon. You've got a nice combo of E46's now. Congrats!
Thanks Aaron! I'm dd'ing it for now. The power is addicting.

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Originally Posted by ohio330ci View Post
Agreed on oil analysis. My first analysis had elevated lead and copper but by 3 points. Failing bearings will have 200 plus points. Don't know if you read about the rear reinforcement but plates may not be the end all solution. Lots of threads on m3forum about it. If mine isn't cracked, I may do the welded bar plus bolt method.
Got a link to what you are planning? I've seen some guys use foam above the subframe, but honestly I was going to set the plates and forget about it. Might need more research on this too.
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy View Post
Thanks Aaron! I'm dd'ing it for now. The power is addicting.



Got a link to what you are planning? I've seen some guys use foam above the subframe, but honestly I was going to set the plates and forget about it. Might need more research on this too.
I was planning on dropping my subframe in the next couple weeks and using epoxy to put the plates in too.. I thought plates would take care of everything?
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:12 PM   #11
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Here is one http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=450730
Later in the thread there is a swede by the name of VinceSE2, he makes some custom hardware and things for a more "OEM" appearance and fitment. This one shows failure with reinforcement plates http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=909256
You can put the plates on and reinforce the subframe attach points, but you are not changing how the load is transferred through the car. Eventually will have the same cracking or probably worse.....
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Old 01-23-2016, 07:50 PM   #12
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The car in the second link made 700whp, I don't think any amount of reinforcement plates would have helped that. I doubt the car was babied either.
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Old 01-25-2016, 09:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoonter View Post
The car in the second link made 700whp, I don't think any amount of reinforcement plates would have helped that. I doubt the car was babied either.
Yeah hard launches and high horsepower is a bit different than normal track duty. Hoonter are you planning on using foam as well?

Of course once the subframe comes down, things might change. I was able to get underneath the car and poke around with a flash light, and all looked ok, but you don't really know until you pull everything out. I'm planning on doing solid diff mounts and poly subframe bushings while I have it down

Do you guys know if rear camber arms are needed? I'll probably need about 2-2.5 degrees camber out of the rears, not sure if the stock arms can go that high.

Here's the diy I was planning on following:
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=287849
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:22 AM   #14
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I haven't decided if I'm going to use foam or not. I'd like to add the extra protection but I'm not sure how much the gun costs and how hard it is to get one. I haven't looked into the foam too much. I will be putting in all new oem bushings too.

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Old 01-27-2016, 08:15 AM   #15
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Default So I guess you're not getting an E9X M3 now?!

Nice pickup! As much as I love my E92 the E46 just pulls at my heart strings.

I'll throw in my vote for welded in subframe plates. It's a matter of when not if. "Structural Foam" would probably be fine for street use but I'd personally want the chassis tied up for track use. EAG does the service, they're very knowledgeable, experienced and they're reasonable. You're looking at sub $2k for subframe+solid bushings installed. But part of me doesn't want to support those guys
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Old 01-27-2016, 08:49 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by DAS_V8 View Post
Nice pickup! As much as I love my E92 the E46 just pulls at my heart strings.

I'll throw in my vote for welded in subframe plates. It's a matter of when not if. "Structural Foam" would probably be fine for street use but I'd personally want the chassis tied up for track use. EAG does the service, they're very knowledgeable, experienced and they're reasonable. You're looking at sub $2k for subframe+solid bushings installed. But part of me doesn't want to support those guys
For the price I couldn't pass up upgrading HP on track! I've been looking at welding vs epoxy'ing, think I'll just glue them on. Bonding science is pretty advanced these days.
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy View Post
For the price I couldn't pass up upgrading HP on track! I've been looking at welding vs epoxy'ing, think I'll just glue them on. Bonding science is pretty advanced these days.
Thats what I'm doing as well, the risk of it rusting will likely be lessened as well. That and the fact that I don't have a welder....
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:55 PM   #18
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I was with you guys in bonding the plates until I started investigating a little further the mode of failure of the subframe mounting locations. I am now looking to put in a half cage in the rear to couple the 4 mounting points, two strut towers, and the trunk floor together.

Look at this video which illustrates why I no longer think bonding plates is the answer: VIDEO The outer skin that you would be bonding to is nothing more than a cover of the underlying structure. You need to secure the whole structure within the floor.

Do you know if EAG does custom cage work?

And let me know if any of you need help removing the subframe. If my schedule allows, I would love to make a trip to your location and help turn wrenches.

---------- Post added at 03:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:51 PM ----------

I also think that inserting the foam is 100% better than plates. You get the foam into the internal structure and reduce the flex within it. I would lean towards foam if you could only do one thing.

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Old 01-28-2016, 07:24 PM   #19
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I found the structural foam on ecstuning, about $80, so I'll give that a shot as well.

McMahan in Akron is probably your best bet for a custom cage that ties in the subframe mounts with the rear strut points. I'm not sure who around Cinci/Dayton does cage work, but that's not an option for me - I need the trunk clearance to somehow fit an extra set of tires, a crate full of extra parts, and my overnight bag.
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:02 PM   #20
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Check out this thread. It has several options for tying those points together. However, to your point, you will lose some trunk space with each. If you are going to track the car, why not lock it down with a partial cage and install a trailer hitch and tow what you need? My only concern is that I want to keep the rear seat.

---------- Post added at 09:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50 PM ----------

I am thinking of purchasing the Mason strut bar and x-brace. They can be removed and reinstalled as needed. LINK
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