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Old 01-25-2011, 11:23 AM   #21
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Wow this is awesome! Looks like it will turn out to be a great car after all the neglect it received.
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:27 PM   #22
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Looks like you've done a great job so far! I need to order some POR15 here soon for my E30 rehab, great stuff indeed.

Kale, you're more than welcome to lend an extra hand when I start workin on the E30 again.
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:02 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron View Post
Looks like you've done a great job so far! I need to order some POR15 here soon for my E30 rehab, great stuff indeed.

Kale, you're more than welcome to lend an extra hand when I start workin on the E30 again.
For sure, you know how to get a hold of me.....and I have a garage to offer too, if you need one
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokey View Post
really great work. I've always wanted a 2002, but I would have been completely inept at trying to fix that much rust damage.
Just buy one that hasn't lived its life in the Midwest, other than a spot on the spare tire well, mine is nice and dry.

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Old 01-25-2011, 10:47 PM   #25
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Awesome!

My Bavaria had rust in many of the same places, but the death knell was the rust around the shock towers. I'd love to learn how to do things like this and someday rescue an e3 or e9.

Good luck with everything, and thanks for keeping this car alive!
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:44 PM   #26
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Oh my god! This dude is seriously devoted to restoring a BMW. Great Job man!
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:03 AM   #27
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So when is paint due?
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:59 AM   #28
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Thanks for all the props. It's definitely a labor of love, but it's worth it. That's probably all the rust repair I'll do since I'm just going for a fun car to drive, not a show car. The only other area's of concern are a few spots in the trunk, but not enough to really warrant any immediate action.

The plans for her from here on out (some have already happened):

-Brake upgrade to 4-piston volvo calipers and rear e21 drums (250mm instead of 230 mm), (already done)
-New carpet (already done)
-M1 inspired dash/console layout with aux gauges (have parts, need time)
-Ceramic coated header/downpipe with stainless exhaust
-All Poly suspension bushings
-Convert to individual carbs from yamaha R1(w/ custom cast manifold)
-Rebuild heater box with new blower fan
-silicon coolant hoses
-convert to early rear bumper (Just need to install)
-Turbo fender flares and front lip
-New wheels to fill flares
-Custom Valve cover with -AN fittings for oil breather tank
-Coolant overflow tank (stock it just drains onto the front frame rails...)

So my work is definitely cut out for me lol.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:18 AM   #29
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How are you going to cast the manifold? i know the ways to go about a short run casting, just curious how and where.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:20 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KidneyBoy View Post
How are you going to cast the manifold? i know the ways to go about a short run casting, just curious how and where.

I'm the VP of the American Foundry Society-Ohio State Student Chapter, as so I have full access to the foundry on campus. I also have a lot of connections in the foundry industry, in particular a foundry up near Youngstown that specializes in low volume, specialty castings.

This is the manifold I drew up in CAD. I still need to tweak some of the spacing, but overall it shouldn't change much. I am going to add place to put in fuel injectors so this could also be used for a FI conversion using the r1 carbs as throttle bodies (they come with a throttle position sensor standard).




It will be made from a chemically bonded sand mold and require ~ 6 cores to get the final shape right. On top of that the two ends will need machined; the mounting flange that bolts to the head will need to be a clean, flat plane and the tubes that connect to the carbs will need milled down to be ~3mm thick. As cast the ends will be closer to 6 mm thick. This is to help ensure the molten aluminum fills the mold cavity correctly. With very thin sections it has a tendency to 'freeze' before properly filling.

My goal is to have the patterns (used to create the sand mold) made by the end of this quarter (mid March) and then have the carbs installed and dialed in by summer.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:44 AM   #31
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Thats what i wanted to see. Very cool, you may want to run off a few manifolds, im sure theres a small market for items like this.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:26 PM   #32
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The plan is to make a small run of them, maybe 5-10. In theory these could be used on any m10 from the 2002 all the way up to the e30 if they're going the ITB/FI route so the would probably get sold off. There's another '02 owner down in cinci that's been hoping for something like this for a while but didn't have any way of getting it done. I could go into a crap-load of details, but basically these carbs should give about the same performance as a set of dual Weber 45mm sidedrafts. The main difference is a good used set of sidedrafts/manifolds/linkage go for $800-1200 while my r1 carbs cost $125. Throw in another $150-200 for the manifold and $50 for a throttle linkage setup and your only around $400 for everything.

That's the plan at least.
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Old 02-01-2011, 12:55 AM   #33
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I'm going to try and let the pictures do the talking....

Step 1: Remove the Hood



Step 2: Admire Weight Reduction



Step 3: Examine Ugly Engine Bay



Step 4: Spill Coolant All Over the Floor



Step 5: Disconnect Coolant System and Remove Radiator



Step 6: Remove Intake Manifold



Step 7: Admire Your New Roomy Engine Bay. Your engine now runs on hopes and dreams.




The main reason for removing this stuff was to work on the new manifold design and make sure it would bolt up to the head and let the carbs sit at the correct angle etc etc. But after looking at how dirty the engine was I couldn't help but think I should just pull the whole thing and give it a good refreshing. But I digress...
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Last edited by tinkwithanr; 05-01-2012 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 02-01-2011, 01:05 AM   #34
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Like I said earlier, one of the main reason's she's been decommissioned for the winter was the lack of a heater. This would let the window's fog up very quickly, which is never a good thing. So while the coolant system was drained I figured now was as good a time as ever to tear into that and get it fixed. So without further ado....

The ugly 'ol heater box after I wrestled it out from under the dash:




The mount for the heater valve once I unbolted it. Who knew plastic would get brittle after 35 years of head fluctuation....




The innards, not very pretty. Although I have heard leaves can increase airflow ~20%.




And here's the bastard that's been keeping me in the cold.




Next to his replacement:




And the fan blade swapped over, ready for it's new home.




I then finished disassembling the rest of the box and sorted all the parts. I just need to actually sit down and order the new seals and grommets to put her back together. I'll also fix all the cracks with some JB weld or the like and give her a fresh coat of paint.



Oh, and last but not least I might as well take out the alternator and brackets to give them a good cleaning. I doubt they like being covered in old oil. Also I cut out the stock battery tray since I'm moving it to the trunk. I bet I could fit a V10 in here with all this extra space! (well not even close, but I can dream).

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Old 02-01-2011, 01:18 AM   #35
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So here's a nice shiny, freshly sand-blasted intake manifold. But how do you get the port from it into your 3D CAD program?




First, use some thinking juice. It's very recommended for those times you just can't seem to figure out how to get something done.




Then suddenly you figure it out! First, guestimate the port the best you can and print it out on some computer paper. Then stick a small led flashlight into the port like so:



Now, just lay the paper over the port and see how close you are. After a few iterations hopefully it will look something like this:



And not something like this:



From there you can just make the correct transitions into the right spacing for your application. The latest design can be seen a few posts up.

At this point curiosity got the best of me and I had to find out what kind of condition my ebay-special carbs were in. so I removed the float bowls and to my pleasant surprise they look great!



And that was without me cleaning them out at all. I wish I could say the outside looked that clean, but that's nothing a quick shot of carb cleaner won't remedy.




So as of this update you guys are actually all caught up with the project.











Except for what I did this past weekend.
Let's just say this isn't going to be my winter beater anymore.
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:59 AM   #36
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NICE!
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:27 AM   #37
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Thoroughly impressed.
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:50 AM   #38
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comin along great

where are you doin all this work?
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:44 AM   #39
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Right now it's just out of my parents garage. I wish I could have it up at school with me but there's just no where to work on it up here.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:58 AM   #40
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uhhh...

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=196961
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